Once you have finished with the CROSSDRESSER MAKEUP and have your eyes and lips done to perfection you need to look and contouring and crossdresser foundation.
Beard cover is the next step you need to get right unless you have done laser or electrolysis. Max Factor makes a Pan Stick which comes in many shades and does a good job. MAC, Sephora and Ulta might have some good products for crossdresser foundation . Don’t worry about primer with the beard cover products because as I recall they are pretty heavy and moisturize well.
If you don’t need beard cover and just use a regular foundation start by using a makeup primer like Cinema Secrets. It fills in the pores and gives your face a soft smooth surface.
I am a firm believer in MAC Cosmetics because of the pigment content and the excellent coverage I get with them. After applying the primer I use the MAC NW25 Pro Longwear liquid foundation for most of my face and pressed powder NW35 and NW45 for the contour.
I use the contouring process to change the shape of my face giving it a more feminine oval shape.
I use the darker NW45 first going from just in front of my ear down along the jaw line to make my jaw look less square. It extends down to each side of my chin to make it more pointed. I then suck my cheeks in as a guide to wear to place the line from almost my mouth to the temple and down the sides of my nose. Then I create an arch over the top of my forehead from temple to temple.
Use a two sided foundation brush with one end for application and the other for blending. At this point I use a circular motion with the blending end of the brush on the edges so there are no lines visible. Next I use the NW35 down my neck and chest area with a different brush taking care to blend the jaw area well.
I finish off with the NW25 powder everywhere on my face where I did not put the NW35 and NW45 foundation and blend again.
For the center of the nose, under the eyes, under the outer edge of the eyebrows and the point of the chin I use Sephora Cover FX N10 for a dramatic effect.
I stopped using MAC’s Pro Longwear foundation for contouring because it sets up too quick. It looked fine in hotel bathroom lighting but when I looked in the car mirror I could see lines where the contour was not blended properly. It is impossible to blend once it sets up so all you can do is take it off and start over.
I now use the pressed powder version in the NW 35, NW 40, and NW 45. I cover my face with NW 25 liquid foundation for a base. When contouring I move to the window with a hand held mirror and apply the countour powder lightly then blend. I then go back to the bathroom to see if the contour has washed out in the bathroom lighting. The bathroom lighting is closer to the evening light I will be seen in than the window daylight. If the contour is washed out I lightly add more contour powder. When your face has all the different shades perfectly blended so it is not clear where one color ends and the other begins . Use the damp blender sponge again to set everything in place.
Us the setting spray to seal your crossdresser foundation in place and let it dry thoroughly then follow with setting powder.
I use this crossdresser foundation method and never have to touch my makeup again all night. Butter London lipstick is also long wear so after eating I might add more but it is never gone.
MORE ON CONTOURING
CREAM VS. POWDER
The best video that I have found for face contouring is Goss and he does many very good ones. I have used both powder and cream for contouring and the cream is the best by far. The powder gets built up quickly and will look caked . Cream tends to be absorbed by the skin so you can do a light setting powder over it for a natural look. You will look like a witch doctor at first but when you blend everything like he does in this VIDEO you will be amazed.
Remember that men have different areas that need to be addressed and techniques differ depending on the artist.
The above picture shows dark contour up the sides of the nose curing out under the brow bone. The picture below shows dark contour going up and blending into the eyebrow most likely to lengthen the nose.
The dark contour on the jawline above is evident on this picture also. The picture below has less dark contour because she already has a oval face.
The pictures to the right show the highlighting technique very well especially the far right on top. The bottom left shows the start of the blending process. The final far right bottom photo shows the amazing difference as opposed to the first picture. The right wig styled properly can also make your face appear thinner.
I hope Micki Finn’s makeup for crossdressers is helpful for you and you are happy with the results.