The number one thing that crossdressers are searching for on the internet is information on crossdresser makeup. Inquiries vary but the majority are about foundation and large size artificial fingernails. I will start with foundation and you will find the fingernails on my CROSSDRESSER FINGERNAILS PAGE.
Crossdresser makeup is needed to look like women and use many of the same products that women do. Where a woman might get away with little or no makeup most crossdressers cannot. The right makeup product in the correct places will create the wonderful illusion that you are looking for. I recommend contouring your face with cream foundation and there are some great links on this site to help you. You can use contouring to change the look of your facial features such as narrowing your nose, round off your square chin, create cheek bones, and disguise your Adam’s apple. If you don’t know how to contour you need to learn.
Most people put foundation on first all over the face and in some cases the neck along with the chest. Then follow with eyes, lips, etc. I guess that’s because it’s called foundation so it should be on the bottom of everything else. For many years I did also until I discovered a method that reduced the time it took to get ready. The foundation we should be looking at is really the skin on your face. That is what we are going to apply the makeup on. The better the surface you paint on the better it looks so preparation pays off.
My makeup for crossdressers process saves me time by getting the difficult stuff out of the way first. The difficult steps are typically where you make the mistakes that take time to correct or require starting over from scratch. This makeup for crossdressers process focuses on completing the eyes first which allows you to make corrections as needed. Once they are perfect you move on to the foundation and contouring which are easy last. The jumping back and forth between steps is intentional and is where the time savings is achieved. Basically instead of waiting for something to dry or set you jump ahead a step or two and do something else. Then you go back and finish the previous step.
What follows is what I do and why I do it.
There are two parts to face preparation the first being what you do every day on an ongoing basis to maintain your skin quality. The better your skin looks the better your crossdresser makeup experience will be. To further improve your makeup outcome there are skin treatments available. Things like laser hair removal or electrolysis along with micro dermabrasion will create smooth skin with small pores that will make a big difference in your makeup. To keep it looking good daily sunscreen and moisturizer are a must and will allow you to use less foundation for a more natural look. It will also help you keep your pores small which is crucial to looking your best.
The second part of face preparation is before you start getting ready to apply your makeup. It can be done hours before you start getting your face ready by moisturizing it. There are many ways to do it and my favorite is a micro dermabrasion facial which gets rid of dead skin, blackheads and super moisturizes your skin. My makeup always comes out better with the facial but if that is not in your budget or time line. Clean your face well and super moisturize an hour before starting your makeup routine.
Crossdresser Makeup Routine
Crossdresser makeup is different from women because we typically don’t want our arched eyebrows to give us away when not in DRAG. Brow taping gives us a better result than women and it goes away the next day.
I prepare my forehead so that I can use tape to lift my eyebrows into a feminine arch.
I start by taking a cotton ball dampened in as pure an alcohol as I can find and clean my forehead from the high point of my eyebrow to the hairline. In my case the hair line has receded so I can go higher than some. I do this on each side about three times per side.
This is done to remove the oil in and on the skin so the new-skin applied in step 4 will adhere better.
I let this dry while I move on to the STEP #2 of the process.
Again using the alcohol I gently wipe the area just above my eyelashes with a dampened Q Tip. Be careful that the Q Tip is only dampened and not dripping so that it cannot leak into your eye causing it to burn and turn red. This is done to prepare for applying false eyelashes so they stay on all night without lifting.
Just as in step one let the alcohol dry and move on to STEP #3.
Using a flat eyeliner brush and eyeliner gel carefully lift your eyebrow and gently dab the gel in between your lashes. I like this more natural look as opposed to a harsh black line above my eye.
My brush is from Laura Mercier but one with a flat end like a paint brush should work.
Go back to the forehead and apply the new-skin to the area you cleaned with the alcohol in step #1
I put on a couple of coats to make sure that I have a good surface to tape to. The new-skin will adhere to your clean skin and provide a clean dry surface to tape to. It dries quick so you can build up two coats fast but, don’t over do it.
This is where I apply Elmer’s water soluble non toxic glue to my side burns. A couple of coats dry quick and can be smoothed with your finger.
Once dry I can apply my concealer and foundation all the way up above the ear. This keeps the different colored side burn from showing under my blonde wig.
Do your brows next with what ever process that you prefer. I use Anastasia of Beverly Hills Pomade with their brush.
Don’t worry about getting the perfect line because you will be shaping them later. You just want to get the basic shape of your eyebrow.
The arch will be done in step nine and that is when you will finalize the shape of the brow to your ta
Now apply light concealer under the brow to define the shape of the lower brow. Then liquid foundation to the upper brow to complete the definition of the brows.
During this process you can cheat a bit and bring the concealer up into the brow hairs to create a more dramatic arch. You can also create thinner brows by using the glue stick to cover the brow hairs which may take several coats to accomplish.
Using a pointed Q Tip or the back end of your tweezers dipped in eyelash glue apply it to the area above your eyelash that you cleaned with the alcohol in step TWO.
Next apply glue to the edge of your false eyelashes that you have previously trimmed to the proper size.
I like this method because it keeps the corners of the eye lash from lifting while I am out. They stay put the whole night.
After the lash glue has mostly turned clear from the white when you applied it apply the lashes to your eye. Get as close to the lash line as you can. Putting the eyeliner on earlier makes it easier to see where they go.
It works better if you don’t wait until the glue is clear and dry because it is harder to work with. You won’t be able to move the lashes into the proper position if they keep sticking to everything.
I have had to remove the lash and start over again because the lash has become to hard to work with. They will stay put once you get them in position.
Now using the 3M Blenderm tape placed above your eye where you applied the New-skin. Gently pull the tape so your brow lifts into either an arch or straight if you wish. Fasten the end of the tape you are pulling to your skin or a wig cap to keep your arched brow in place.
The arch is more feminine and looks natural. The straight look is more costume and dramatic.
From this point you can ad more gel or pencil if needed but again don’t worry too much about the final shape of the brow.
Be careful not to pull to much because the tape and new-skin will hold tight so it is your skin that will give as in tearing or blistering. Been there done that!
Now apply your lighter eye shadow to the whole eyelid above the eyelashes and under the brow.
Next using a different brush apply the darker shadow in the crease out to the corner of the eye. I apply it to the outer corner of my eye and half way in.
Apply mascara to your lashes as desired and check the eye area for any mistakes or smears. Make any corrections or changes that you want at this point.
When you are happy with your eyes take a folded makeup wipe and clean the area under each eye.
With the eyes all done you can proceed with the lips starting with the lip pencil. Draw the shape that you want for your lips using the pencil. If you don’t like what you see do it again and again until get one you like.
Using a concealer brush carefully go around the outside of your lipstick with concealer that matches your foundation color.
Be careful not to put it on too thick because it will form a ridge where it meets the lipstick. You will use a blender sponge on this area later so don’t worry about the line blending at this point.
This is particularly helpful to us old broads because it keeps the lipstick from bleeding into the lines around your mouth. You know when you look like a vampire that just finished with someone!
Now you can use a lip brush to fill in the lines with your favorite lipstick.
Make sure you stay within the lines and don’t go heavy, you will add more later.
THE FINISHED PRODUCT
Eyes and Lips done you need to start the contouring and foundation which is much easier. Everything you need to know is on the FOUNDATION page.