Based on statistics from my other website www.chicladies.org that has been collected over several years the number one thing that crossdressers are searching for on the internet is information on Crossdresser makeup. Inquiries vary but the majority are about foundation and large size artificial fingernails. I will start with foundation and get to fingernails later because that is the last thing that I put on.
Crossdressers wear makeup to look like women and use many of the same products that women do but where a woman might get away with little or no makeup most crossdresssers cannot. The right makeup product in the correct places will create the wonderful illusion that you are looking for. I recommend contouring your face with cream foundation and there are some great links on this site to help you. You can use contouring to change the look of your facial features such as narrowing your nose, round off your square chin, create cheek bones, and disguise your Adam’s apple. If you don’t know how to contour you need to learn.
Most people put foundation on first all over the face and in some cases the neck along with the chest. Then follow with eyes, lips, etc. I guess that’s because it’s called foundation so it should be on the bottom of everything else or, at least first on. For many years I did also until I discovered a method that reduced the time it took to get apply considerably by minimizing the damage of fixing mistakes.
What follows is what I do and why I do it.
There are two parts to face preparation the first being what you do every day on an ongoing basis to improve your skin quality. The better your skin looks the better your makeup experience will be. Things like laser hair removal or electrolysis along with micro dermabrasion will create smooth skin with small pores that will make a big difference in your makeup. To keep it looking good daily sunscreen and moisturizer are a must and will allow you to use less foundation for a more natural look.
The second part of face preparation is before you start getting ready to apply your makeup can be hours start getting your face ready by moisturizing it. There are many ways to do it and my favorite is a micro dermabrasion facial which gets rid of dead skin, blackheads and super moisturizes your skin. My makeup always comes out better with the facial but if that is not in your budget or time line. Clean your face well and super moisturize an hour before starting your makeup routine.
First after moisturizing I use a Q Tip soaked in alcohol then allowed to evaporate until it is just damp. I then gently wipe it over my eyelids above the lash line where I will apply my false eyelashes. This is to remove the surface oil from my eyelid. Be very careful because the eyelid skin is very delicate. If you naturally have light colored eyelashes put mascara on your own lashes to help you see where the false ones should be applied.
Take a cotton ball soaked in alcohol and wipe the area just about outward and about 3/4inch above the pupil of your eye to your hairline.
While the alcohol evaporates take your false eyelashes out and trim them to size then go back to your eyelids and use the back end of your tweezers or something smooth to put a line of eyelash glue just above your natural lashes where the false ones will go. Now coat the artificial lash with a thin layer along the base and allow to dry.
I use the white eyelash glue that turns clear when it has dried so I know when my eyelids are ready to apply the eyelashes. Ideally the glue on the lash that you applied after your eyelids will still be partially wet so you can adjust them.
While the eyelash glue dries go back to your forehead apply liquid New Skin to the area you wiped with alcohol in step #2 above your eyes on an outward angle to your hairline.
Go back to the eyelashes and apply them starting with the outer corner of each eye at the base of your lash. If you get them on quickly and positioned correctly they will be good for the night. Make sure that they lay on your natural lashes so that they don’t stick out.
Go back to your brows and take a 3 to 4 inch strip of clear medical tape and place the bottom end it ¾ inch above each eye on the angle that you put the New Skin on then gently pull out and up to create an eyebrow arch.
Use eyebrow pencil or gel to outline your arched feminine brow. It does not have to be perfect because you will fine tune it later.
Use a concealer and a small angled brush above and below your eyebrow to make it sharper and more defined. You can cheat a little and cover hairs to make a thinner more glamorous brow. Apply your eye shadow and eyeliner next followed by mascara then curl your lashes.
You now have well defined beautiful feminine eyes and brows if all went well. If not, you can fix it with a makeup remover wipe and start all over if need be. Clean off any shadow, eyeliner or mascara that has fallen on your upper cheeks or nose.
Now apply pore filler to your nose, cheeks and any other area that you want to eliminate the appearance of pores so it has time to dry before you apply foundation.
Take a lip pencil and draw your lips the way you want and again you can make corrections with a wipe or Q Tip. Once you have gotten that perfect lip shape use a cream concealer on the outer edge of the lips that you drew without covering the line. This will keep your lipstick from bleeding / smearing into the wrinkles below your lips. If you screw-up you can repair it by wiping it off or going over it again.
Note: You have now done all of the difficult precision detail work done where a slip or twitch can cause a smear or drip on your foundation. I fought with eye shadow falling on my cheeks or blinking while apply mascara causing black smears below my eyes. I had to fix it by cleaning it off removing some foundation or covering it with more foundation. The result was either a patched look or thicker foundation spots. Putting the foundation on later has worked out best for me because you could fix anything that went wrong without having to deal with the foundation which is most of your face.
Now using a liquid foundation and brush put some on the back of your hand then in a circular motion put a small amount of it on the end of the brush. Again using a circular motion apply to all of the areas that you normally use foundation so that it fills the pores. Leave an area around the brows and lips to be done with smaller detail brush. Now use the same foundation with a small tapered concealer brush to get right to the edge of those areas without smearing or crossing into the other lines.
You should be pretty much done at this point unless you are a glamour puss like me and do contouring. If so keep reading.
Take another foundation 2 to 3 times darker than your normal flesh tone and do your temples, jaw line, lower cheek and top of the brow. If you don’t know how see the section on contouring before this step.
Blend all of the contoured edges with a blending brush so there are no sharp lines and don’t worry if it seems to dark or too much contrast. Once it is all blended use a setting powder applied in a swirling motion.
Now apply your lipstick such as a MAC stay on all night within the outline you drew.
I hope this works for you as it has for me.
I got frustrated getting my foundation perfect and the screwing it up by getting eye shadow or mascara on it then trying to fix it with more foundation or concealer. That made it look patchy and thick.